Zaffaraya - (it means
"Paradise" in the language of the Moors). To
go there is to know why it was named as such. After a
climb of 2000ft from Velez Malaga via a reasonable
road, there is a gap in the mountain, go through this
gap and you are greeted with a plateau, totally
different to what you have just driven through.
The
Zaffaraya pass
With the national park and the sierras
Tejada, Almijara & Alhama mountains as a backdrop,
you will come upon what can only be described as an
Oasis of agriculture. The area is totally flat and the
fields abound with an amazing variety of
crops.....Wheat, barley, artichokes, cabbage, potatoes
etc etc. These fields are fed by the water &
soil almost alluvium in its nature, from the
surrounding mountains, that, together with the
temperate climate almost ensures a plentiful harvest.
Where as in the mountains, goats (cabras)
are in the ascendancy, due to the terrain. Here
it is sheep, herded as they have no doubt been for
centuries.
There are also many different
varieties of tree, not really seen in other parts of
Andalucia, no doubt due to the unique location
Fields
of wheat gleaming in the sunshine
We now leave Zaffaraya behind and
head towards Alhama de Granada. From here on in the
ground is more undulating and although there are still
many wheat fields etc, most of the land towards Alhama
is given over to the more traditional crops associated
with Andalucia, Olive & Almond trees
As you can see, there are still many
green fields, but also the olive & almond trees
abound, in the distance is the mountain range of the
Sierra Nevada replete with snow.
Alhama
is situated atop of a beautiful gorge (tajo) created
by the Rio Alhama flowing below.
The
name Al Hama means "hot springs" in Arabic
and there are baths here dating back to Roman times.
Moorish
architecture still visible in the town.
Iglesia
del Carmen dates back to the sixteenth century
In the center of town adjacent to the
gorge, is the main Church, Iglesia de La Encarnación,
built on the orders of Fernando & Isabel as a gift
of thanks, following the conquest of the Moors. It
could be said that the loss of Alhama de Granada by
the Moors in 1482 played a significant part in their
eventual expulsion from Spain. It certainly severed a
vital supply route from here to Málaga and on to
North Africa. The town was involved in the siege of
Granada and I believe there was a hospital sighted
here to deal with the wounded from the battles. There
certainly has been a hospital since the sixteenth
century, " hospital de la Reina".
La plaza de la constitución Is the
main square, where most sites of interest can be
reached from with ease. including a Moorish castle
ruin, the facade of which unfortunately has been
spoilt by the addition of battlements painted red!.
There is also a delightful drinking fountain in front
of the main Church which is used by people and beasts
alike!.
There are several restaurants in the
plaza offering good local food, but if you are feeling
really adventurous and are prepared to travel a little
further then I would thoroughly recommend lunch at Rio
Frio. (Approx 40kms from Alhama). This is a small
hamlet situated by a crystal clear river, fed by the
sierras. Also adjacent to the river are some lovely
restaurants serving excellent food, particulary the
locally caught trout, and in my view really worth the
extra journey.
Wild flowers en
route
fishing for trout in
the rio frio
------------------------------------------------------------------------
If you have the time on the
return journey, on reaching lake Viñuela turn right
and head north once again following the signs for
Alfarnate, particularly during prima vera (spring
time), because en route you will be rewarded with some
wonderful sights of wild flowers, in particular
poppies growing amongst the cereal crops.
The town of Alfarnate is accessed
through the mountain pass of Puerto de los Alhazores,
and like Zaffaraya is situated on a plateau growing
agricultural crops. The name of the village derives
from the Moorish word for flour mill, "Al-Farnat".
Poppies abound
Puerto de los
alhazores
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