At the heart of
Frigiliana is the old town. Somehow or other it has
survived the onslaught of developers. Only 5 minutes
from the coast its neat streets are best seen in June
during the festival of San Anton. Apart from the
traditional Romeria there is the running of the bulls
through the narrow streets.
Twelve plaques, at various stages,
show the towns Moorish past in graphic detail.
Once there was a castle above the
town, its ruins are a reminder of the final days of
Islam in Andalucia. It was here, in 1569 that Muslims
from all over the Axarquia (then known as Betomiz
after a famous Caliph) took their last stand against
the Christian armies. Rather than be captured, it is
said that women threw themselves from the battlements
onto the rocks below.
They say that Frigiliana once embraced
happily the three great religions of the world. The
star of David stands alongside the Cross and the Crescent, testifying to a golden age. If such an age
existed it was effectively killed by the Catholic
Monarchs in 1492 when Jews were banished throughout
Spain. For the next hundred years successive Monarchs
tried also to wipe out Islam. But 500 years of
Christianity have failed to erase its Berber blood.
The Church of St Anthony of Padua
still retains its Moorish turret. Water still comes to
town along the ancient Arab acequias and in its food
and customs the town retains its links with 800 years
of Islamic occupation.
Frigliana today is a bustling village,
it's main industry being tourism, situated, aprox
20mins north of Nerja by car) it is probably the most
famous of all "los pueblos blancos". It is
steeped in history, as the few paragraphs above bear
testament. But it has also featured prominently
in the more recent past, the civil war and the years
following that momentous event.
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