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Cómpeta
The white village
of Cómpeta is the best-kept secret in Spain. Only
20 minutes from the coast and 2000 feet above sea
level, Cómpeta hovers like a dove over the
beautiful Sierra Almijara.
Above, lies Mount
Maroma "the Sleeping Moor" (snow-capped in
winter ), silent witness to Andalucia´s 800 year
old Muslim occupation. (They say the keys to the
houses of evicted Moors still hang in far-off Arab
homes.) But Cómpeta goes back at least
2000 years, when it was a crossroads for Roman trade
between the coast and the Sierras.
CÓMPETA,
comprises two villages, "Ël Barrio" the
oldest part, still boasts an old mosque renamed
Hermita de San Sebastian after the Christian
conquest in 1487. With its own Feria, (fair) the
Barrio retains a working Olive Oil Plant, processing
the fruit of the many olive groves that are a major
part of the scenery and local economy. Its other
main crop is the Moscatel grape.
To celebrate the
victory of the Catholic Monarchs over Islam, the
Church of Our Lady of the Assumption see (Photo
Album , Welcome
Page)
was built
in 1505. Recently superbly refurbished with its own
museum, it stands in the main Plaza Almijara, scene
of a most unusual and thrilling festival.
Every year on
August 15th, La Noche del Vino (The Night of the
Wine) celebrates the sweet wine of the town. The
innocent golden colour belies its mouthwatering
succulence and extreme potency. 1500 litres are
consumed during festival day soaked up with
brimming platefuls of Migas (similar to Cus-cus)
and the salted Bacalao. At night there is a
concert of genuine Flamenco music and dancing,
which goes whirling on into the early hours. (Photo
Album) (Fiestas)
High above the
town, where goatherds still weave their centuries old
trails, are breathtaking views of unending mountain
ranges, the sparkling Mediterranean, and, on a clear
day, the north coast of Africa. And that is
another of Cómpeta´s secrets.
Lean on any of Cómpeta´s
bars and Africa stares back at you in the smiling
olive faces of townspeople. Dark haired girls with
teeth white as snow flaunt their bright dresses in the
sun-drenched streets. Old men and women seated in cool
shades of evening nod warmly as you pass by. Neither
wars, nor religion, nor even tourism can quite blot
out a town at peace with itself and its visitors.
Frigiliana
At the heart of
Frigiliana is the old town. Somehow or other it has
survived the onslaught of developers. Only 5 minutes
from the coast its neat streets are best seen in June
during the festival of San Anton. Apart from the
traditional Romeria there is the running of the bulls
through the narrow streets.
Twelve plaques, at various stages,
show the towns Moorish past in graphic detail.
Once there was a castle above the
town, its ruins are a reminder of the final days of
Islam in Andalucia. It was here, in 1569 that Muslims
from all over the Axarquia (then known as Betomiz
after a famous Caliph) took their last stand against
the Christian armies. Rather than be captured, it is
said that women threw themselves from the battlements
onto the rocks below.
They say that Frigiliana once embraced
happily the three great religions of the world. The
star of David stands alongside the Cross and the Crescent, testifying to a golden age. If such an age
existed it was effectively killed by the Catholic
Monarchs in 1492 when Jews were banished throughout
Spain. For the next hundred years successive Monarchs
tried also to wipe out Islam. But 500 years of
Christianity have failed to erase its Berber blood.
The Church of St Anthony of Padua
still retains its Moorish turret. Water still comes to
town along the ancient Arab acequias and in its food
and customs the town retains its links with 800 years
of Islamic occupation.
The above two
synopsis were compiled by our good friend David
Goodland.
for a short history of Andalucia click on the flag
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